Thursday, August 29, 2013

ST. LUCIA

St. Lucia, where do I begin....  I started out at Hermina s fathers
apartment building, which was located just outside of the captial-  Castries.  However, after spending a day hiking and witnessing the gorgeous  landscapes and realizing how far this was from the hiking and waterfalls of Soufiare (pronounced sulfer), I moved further south and stayed at a guest house near to Petit Piton, in order to maximize my hiking, and waterfall time (priorities in St. Lucia).   On the first day, I paid a guide to drive me around and join me on hikes which required I have one, but on the second and third day, the guide and I just hung out and continued to hike and enjoy the waterfalls together, so the mandatory guide rule, wasn't so bad.  I didn't have to join large groups and after the first day, I didn't even have to pay a local to join me.


Together we covered: Tet Paul Trail, Piton falls, Sulfer Springs (with mud bath and volcano), Jerusalum falls, Petit Piton mountain (climb and hike), Volcano falls, Diamond Falls and a rainforest hike.  While one must meet Hermina's father Hilton, to fully understand the need, I was in touch with him each day to ensure him I was exercising an extreme amount of caution, and was careful to minimize my risk, in order to enjoy St. Lucia in the safest way possible.  Ha, well, part of that was true.

While I did not meet as many locals as I did in Barbados with being out in nature most of the time and not even really seeing the capital city more than beyond the bus stops, I did enjoy the culture with trying out various rums, including a homemade blend,  and learnt of the various uses of coconut oil (moisturizer, relieves itch, burn and rashes, good for cuts and scrapes).

Having been formed by a volcano and not shifting plates surfacing from the Atlantic Ocean, like Barbados, St. Lucia is very mountainous, with lush green rainforests, and copious amounts of waterfalls and hot springs.  It would be a great place for just about anyone.  If you are wanting to relax -spend a day between hot springs and water falls or enjoy a mud bath.  If you want to enjoy the rainforest and spend some time leisurly walking, take a hike in the rainforests and see if you can spot their national bird or a few snakes.  If you are looking for a challenge, climb a mountain, try petit piton, which is quite steep, or the Gros Piton, which is higher and more gradual.  Or, if you are up for anything, try doing all of it.

Volcano Falls, is a more private falls as it entails a 30-40 minute hike in, while others were only minutes from where we parked.  I would most definately recommend the Volcano Falls, as it was by far the most beautiful of them all, if it is possible to find fault in the others and completely natural, without man made steps or railings, it was entirely on its own in the rainforest.

The Tet Paul Trail, can be taken as a leisurly walk or  more quickly as a hike.  The later taking about 35 minutes.  It provides the highest viewing platform on the island and is a great place to start as it gave me bearing for locations around the area, which was helpful throughout the visit.

The mud bath was found at the sulfer springs and while probably a paradice for children, I was greatful, no one seemed to bring thiers while I was there, most especially after my flight to St. Lucia (I think there should be a policy on flights that if you have a child who cannot sit still, it is mandatory that you book the seat next to them and not two rows up,  but this is another story...).  It was a quiet and relaxing experience, which they say takes 10 years off of your life:)

On the second day, Jason I climbed up the Petit Piton.  At 743 metres high, it stands 30 metres shorter than the Gros Piton, but much steaper.  It was more of a climb than a hike, with the need to use ropes on several occasions.  However, when we reached the last stretch (approximately 710 metres up), it began to rain and we couldnèt climb to the peak.  It took everything in me to turn around, because I couldn't stand the thought of going that far and not reaching the top of any mountain, however this one  is not really recommended for those who are not from the area and the ropes were not harnessed to the climber, rather, it was a long rope, tied to the top and knotted every foot or so.  The climber was at this point to grab ahold of the rope and walk up the rock face, while gripping from knot to knot as they moved up with the rope.  The climber was to do the same on the decent.  I stood at this point for awhile and Jason kept repeating that it was risky when it wasn't raining but should never be done in the rain.  I decided that if they say the worst thing for a parent is to outlive their children, then I owed it to mine not to try and this seemed to satisfy me enough to turn around.  Even if it was disappointing, this was the only point in the entire trip I experienced such an emotion and the view from where we turned around was great, even if not on a clear day, we could still see the town below.

This is what Trip Advisor comments had to say about it, the advice is mixed, but no one mentions doing it in the rain, which was assuring at least....
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g147342-i247-k5104415-Climbing_Petit_Piton-St_Lucia.html

Walking through the rainforest back to the road after the decent, Jason asked, "do you want to go for another hike, to a water fall for a bit, or a hike to a waterfall"    I laughed at the tough decision, and answered," all three!! "  In St. Lucia, I felt like a kid and the toughest part of the day was deciding which playground to enjoy next.  It would be hard to recommend anything over another, except to say, do not climb the Petit Piton if it will bother you not to reach the top or be sure to save it for a clear day, because otherwise, everything was equally as amazing.  I think it is the most beautiful place I have ever been.  While I did not go to any beaches and I cannot comment on the diving, St. Lucia offers a completely different experience from Barbados and I took advantage of what it was known for with every minute I had.  With only three days, I felt I covered as much as I could with boarding the boat to Martinique Friday afternoon.  Below is a slide show of my photos from St. Lucia.  I will discover Martinique next!!!!





Monday, August 19, 2013

Closing the first Chapter

With seemingly countless amazing experiences and adventures Barbados has offered me, it is hard to leave.  When I first booked my flight to St. Lucia I thought I'd be more excited to see St. Lucia, but instead I felt down with the idea of leaving Barbados.  However, like anywhere else, I can always return and the journey must continue. 

A few people can't go without mention in this blog.  Firstly Hermina Charlery, while not a local herself (St. Lucian), Hermina was my first friend in Barbados, and one I will be sure to miss.  Her generous and welcoming personality make her among one of the most beautiful people I know.  I admire her determination and ambition as she starts out her own company, while working at The Nation (Barbados newspaper) as an editor.  The other day, Hermina told me that I have taught her a lot about herself and I laughed at the memory of telling her she had the worst concept of time that I have ever come across.  But the truth is, she has taught me just as much.  From writing, to editing, to her culture and that of Bajans, Hermina is an independent and motivated friend with plenty of knowledge to share and I look forward to when our paths cross again in the future. 

The Bajan I spent the most time with, David Hutson.  He is a dive instructor at The Dive Shop and as I rented from his Godfather, he was also a roommate and dive buddy while I worked. His love for diving was obvious with how happy he was after each day at work and with his detailed descriptions of each dive.  He truly loves what he does and I admire him for that.

Finally to all the others, Alex (who gave me very affordable rent), Shaggy and Kally (who taught me about fishing in Barbados), Steve (who makes the best fish pie at Oistins), Fatema (manager of the Dive Shop), Michael, John, Julian and Shahid (fellow Dive Shop employees), Steve Gallop (lawyer who introduced me to the Barbados Supreme Court and set me up to follow a case), Tom O'Sullivan (friend of my uncle's from Toronto, now living in Barbados), Ryan (a fellow couchsurfer who introduced me to the night life), the many divers I had the pleasure of diving with and hearing the stories of, and the many locals who had the patience and generosity to help me with directions, teach me to play dominos and simply just stop to share a story.  Bajans are beautiful and welcoming people!

With packing my things, I've done some reflecting on my time here in Barbados and all that I have managed to learn, find, experience, chase, visit and see.  It is hard to decide which I enjoyed best. 

I visited Cherry Tree, Tent Bay, the east coast and Harrison's Cave.  I swam in Flower Cave.  

The coastline covered in pin drops which appeared when I googled "beaches in Barbados" before leaving Ottawa- I have been to almost every one.

 I watched turtles lay eggs on the beach, and saw the hatchlings scrabble for the ocean. 

I logged over 45 dives, including 3 night dives, dove 7 ship wrecks and worked as a DM. I've swam with countless turtles, dolphins, frog fish, sea horses and eagle rays.

I helped to rescue dolphins and was on the American news in 8 states for a video I made of the experience.  I helped dolphin rescue groups from around the Caribbean and America link up after contacting me with regard to the same video.  Each passed on information and taught me more about dolphins, dolphin behavior and the patterns and causes of straying.

I learnt how to play dominos with the locals and survived a country with little concept for time.  

I cycled around the island to learn what I could of the varies parishes which make up Barbados and meet many locals in small towns.

I submitted 16 articles and about 30 photos for publication.  I have had 4 of the articles and 12 of the photos already published in a Bajan travel magazine - Explore Barbados.

I tried the traditional Bajan meal - flying fish and breadfruit coo coo. I've tried marlin, sword fish, maui maui, breadfruit, fish pie and macaroni pie.

I spent morning chatting with fishermen as they taught me of their trade. 

I chased black belly sheep, and found green monkeys. 

I discovered new rums. 

I learnt a bit of the Bajan legal system, fishing in Barbados, the concorde plane, and turtle breeding habits. 

I began to understand Bajan slang.

I did all that I could think of and find on the island.  As they say in Austraila, it was a full on trip which left me flat out at times.

With this chapter of the blog coming to an end, I am satisfied that I made the best of my time here and look forward to what this trip was meant to be from the start - a island hoping adventure of the Caribbean!  St. Lucia, here I come!




Sunday, August 18, 2013

Concorde Plane!




Between 1976 and 2003, the Concord flew to four locations, Paris, London, NY and Barbados.  As the best of its kind, the Concorde was said not to sell first or second class seats, but rather just class.  This 100 seat airplane sold seats based on the quality of service, the remarkable fine dining and the time spared through making the journey in less than half the time of a regular aircraft.   

Open Cockpit offered a view to those sitting in the middle isle.
At supersonic speeds, the concord flew at about 60,000 feet, which is five miles higher than the average plane.  This extraordinary height provided passengers a view of the curve of the earth on some flights.   As one might guess, the seats were not cheap for such an experience.  In 2003, when it was last landed, the cost of a one way fare was approximately $8000 USD from London to Barbados .

This cost restricted the customer base to among the wealthiest in the world.  To give an indication of who frequented such planes, the Queen of England chose to spend her 85th birthday on board a 2 hour Concord flight as it circled the UK. 


After becoming decommissioned in 2003, the Concorde made its last flight to Barbados, where it remains in the Museum next to the international airport.  They say it would take the G8 to ever manufacture such a work of art again, and for this reason it is unlikely that this outstanding piece of history will ever be replicated.  Barbados is the only country, which has a fully intact Concord plane which is accessible to the public, making this the only place in the world you can ever enjoy such an experience. 

Chattel Houses

Why moving today is not really that strenuous

We may think the task of moving can be a taxing chore, most especially in the Barbados heat, but such a task was far more strenuous in Barbados in the early 19th century.  During this time, Bajans who worked on the sugar cane plantation often lived in chattel houses.  These homes were given such a name due to their character, in that they were quite literally a chattel and therefore movable.

The homes are made completely of wood, without nails.  The owners would often own the house but not the property.  With living on the employers land it was sometimes necessary to move – their house.

Originally built as a single roof home with two rooms, and referred to as a “one-roof home”, these houses were expanded as the owner saved money.  The first addition was normally a shed in the back, followed by a second full section to make a ‘2 roof house’.  Eventually, if the owner was able, the house would expand to have a third section with shed.


Many of these historical homes are still standing today and can be easily spotted with a drive down a residential street in Barbados.  If you are interested in architecture, be sure to have a look at one of the few wooden homes to be built without a nail. 

Thursday, August 15, 2013

Interesting Article in the Texas Newspaper this week....




More than 20 baby Kemp’s ridley sea turtles were found inside a 50-pound Dorado caught in the Houston Big Game Tournament.

More from Galveston County Daily News: http://bit.ly/19oKe9w





 

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Wiildlife unique to Barbados

GREEN MONKEYS


Green monkeys originated in Africa and were first introduced to Barbados by slaves who brought over this fascinating breed of monkey as a pet.  After 75 generations of adaptation, the Green Monkey currently found in Barbados is home to Barbados alone as it has grown apart from its counterpart found in modern day Africa.

Not unlike other breeds of monkeys, the Green monkey has sometimes been described as mischievous as it wonders about in its seemingly sporadic ways.  It is said that the Barbados Wildlife Reserve was originally created to protect the existence of this species of monkey, but it escaped captivity and became naturalized.  Shortly afterwards, accusations were made of a green monkey causing an eight hour black out in Barbados on Halloween in 2006 after one allegedly climbed an electricity poll and tripped high voltage lines.  There was no direct evidence to support this accusation.

A stronger argument places monkeys to be amongst the most curious form of wildlife in the world.  A number of studies have shown this curiosity to be an innate characteristic of monkeys due to increased gray matter density in the precuneus part of the brain.  This curiosity to learn, and explore, is sometimes mistaken for mischievousness, as monkeys wonder around, picking people’s belongings and swinging from the trees in exploration, without any intention of causing harm.  

Do not fall victim to false accusations made against such a gorgeous creature, wonder out or visit the Barbados Wildlife Reserve to have an encounter of your own and decide for yourself.  You just might get lost in the moment as you play with or observe these curious and friendly monkeys.




BLACKBELLY SHEEP


The original Blackbelly sheep were first introduced to Barbados by the early European settlers and continue to be raised primarily for their lean, mild flavored meat.  Today, this breed of sheep, has grown apart from its surviving form found elsewhere and is unique to Barbados.  The blackbelly sheep found in modern day Barbados, has adapted to tolerate the hot weather and has more stamina than most other breeds of sheep.  Due to their ability to survive in hot temperatures, the blackbelly sheep differentiates itself from most other breeds of sheep in that their hair is course and cannot be used as wool and they breed all year round.

Blackbelly sheep, are widely farmed in Barbados and are not
difficult to spot.  Wonder about, cross some fields or drive any
major road and you will be sure to cross the path of a blackbelly
sheep.  You will know you have spotted one when you see a goat like creature with a brown colored fur covered body and black colored fur around the snout, eyes, ear and legs.  They are harmless, so feel free to pet or stop to take a picture.  It will be a picture you can only take in Barbados.

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Crop Over

Crop Over is a festival which began as far back as 1780, and continued on until 1940.  In 1975 it was reborn and continues to be celebrated for a month every July in Barbados.  Originally this festival began as a celebration of the end of the crops, back when Barbados was one of the largest exporters of sugar cane.  Today, it is a national celebration celebrated with musical competitions, dancing and arts.  The festival has become so big, even Rihanna returns home to make an appearance among the crowd.

I attended three events for this festival, the pan on the sand, the foreday morning (my favorite) and the kadoonment parade.

The pan on the sand was performed in a beautiful location right along Brandon's Beach, where by-standards could stand within the stage area, or only a few meters away on the beach as they listened to the Barbadian pan music for several hours.  Much like all events I went to for this festival, the rum was flowing, the crowd was alive and dancing and the talented performers provided ample entertainment to keep the audience going all night.



Foreday morning began at midnight, or at least that is the time it is set to start.  Even events in Barbados often begin several hours after the start time.  It continues on until sunrise, with Bajans dancing in the streets covering each other in paint and mud as bands march in between keeping the music alive.  This year it was marked the largest crop over event, with 46 bands and 21,000 participants.

Feeling old, and well aware of the fact that there would be no shortage of rum at the event, I drank 2 cups of coffee to prepare for this event, instead of pre-drinking...I have been going to bed relatively early for several weeks now, in order to wake up early for diving, and I wasn't sure if I would be able to stay up!

However, the concern was not at all warranted.  Shortly after arriving I became wide awake, thriving off of the energy of the crowd as we danced down the street listening to a part of the Mosaic and Mojito bands play as they marched along side.  I became so caught up in the festivities that when the sun rose, I couldn't believe it was already nearly 6 in the morning.  I would most definitely recommend attending this event if you are lucky enough to be in Barbados during CropOver.  Be sure to wear old clothes as you will end up covered in paint and  don't worry about the time, there is so much energy in the crowd, you will not even notice what time it is until the sky begins to brighten again.

Kadoonment was probably my least favorite, but one of the largest events.  It marks the end of CropOver and begins with a march around a stadium to have the costumes judged before taking to the long walk through the streets which carries on late into the afternoon.  While many of these costumes were remarkably well done, others were nonexistent, with some contenders literally painting on their costume, in hopes that it did not rain.  While it was something to see, perhaps Foreday morning set the bar too high  for this parade to compete.


If you are traveling through Barbaodos in July, be sure to consult the Crop Over calender and attend an event!


For more detailed information on the events, please see my friend Alex's blog at:
http://caribbeanwave.blogspot.com/