Sunday, September 15, 2013

Day 4 - Snorkeling at Champagne Beach and Scotts Head - South-east Dominica!

After leaving Jacqueline, I headed back to my home base for the time, Shahir's back in Portsmouth.  I shared my stories of the adventure with some fellow travelers and changed my clothes.  I left the big backpack with Shahir and took off once more with the little bag.  A mask and snorkel with a dry change of clothes was all I could see myself needing for this top 10 adventure!

My first stop was Champagne Beach, where I was told I could find the best snorkeling on the island. I had two goals in mind.  To check out the snorkeling, but also to see if I could compare marine life with deciding whether or not to dive in Dominica.  Unfortunately, my video of champagne is on the go-pro which I cannot attach to this computer, so photos will have to be noted during the slideshow I will do at the end of the Dominica portion of the trip.  However, for now, the snorkeling was amazing, and I would most definitely recommend this location.  If you have a mask and fins, it is free, if not, for only $10 to rent both, you can enjoy the experience for as long as you want!

This snorkeling experience was unique to any other, with great visibility, many small fish and warm bubbles coming from below as you swim.  The location gets its name from the hot bubbles which continuously rise from the volcanic sea floor, creating a champagne glass type illusion swim through.  It was well worth the efforts of reaching and the experience.  However, I was finished here earlier than planned, and when I went to catch the bus, another going in the other direction arrived first.  I decided maybe I should check out some of the south, since the opportunity seemed to present itself.  

Heading to Scott's Head, I began with grabbing some local food to eat before sitting near to the beach with a few fishermen.  I once more thought I'd use the opportunity to ask about Turtle soup.  To my surprise, the reaction was very different from Barbados, with the whole group openly admitting to regularly eating turtle, which could be caught during a certain time of the year and only while in open water.  Often they were getting caught in the nets.  While it is illegal to kill turtle out of season in Dominica, I was told it was not illegal to obtain or possess any part of the turtle or turtle product and if one were to get caught in the net, which is often the case, it is a free for all to bring in and eat.  There is also a turtle hunting season, catching a turtle out of season carries a $400 fine.  I asked what breed of turtle,  I was told primarily Hawksbill, but the Green turtle and Leatherback frequent the area as well....

Looking out, I could see the hill at the end of the island, and decided I'd go walk up it to see the view.  Thanking the fishermen for their chat, I headed off for a walk.


Nearly 20 minutes later, I was outside of the town and on top of the hill, taking in the gorgeous view of the surrounding area.  From here, I could see where the Atlantic Ocean met the Caribbean Sea and the two dive sites I would later discover.  Further away, I could see the town, Scott's Head, which I had just come from and a few of the other towns further north. 

Walking back down I noticed the sun was getting lower and perhaps I should find somewhere to sleep"for the night.  I decided I would hitchhike back to Soufiere, and explore that town while finding a guesthouse.  


It wasn't long before I put my thumb up that a vehicle stopped next to me.  It was a police vehicle. 

"Where are you headed?"
'"Somewhere north,"" I replied.  "I think I'll check out Soufiere and find a place for the night. Heading that way?""  
"I can"". he answered. "" I have to pick up my partner, but we are just driving around, not much happens around here.  Hop in.""

20 minutes later we were somewhat on route to Soufiere, with having stopped to talk to locals, when they received a call for a psychiatric patient who had been located.  They asked if I wanted to hang out later and offered to bring me to a hot springs in the town where I could go for a swim while I waited for them to return.  I thought this sounded like a good idea and agreed to be dropped off.  I went to two hot springs in Soufiere that night.  One further up the hill, which I found way too hot, and another, which was in the ocean, where I stayed for a few hours and mingled with some locals.  


With the sun set, I headed for the main road and stopped to chat with some locals with regard to where some guesthouses might be in the area.  The two officers were back, and we hung out for a bit, and had dinner before I went off to sleep for the night.  All up, they received 3 calls the entire night.  The mental health patient, a mother, daughter fight and a prank call.  They rarely ever get any murder I was told, and the most common was theft or assault.  Their only prison was in Rosseau, which is where they had to drive anyone they arrested and their police station, housed all 4-5 officers who are on duty.  The police life in Dominica was a bit different.  They lived at the station for the duration of their shift and were literally on call 24/7.  With 10 days on and 4 days off.   It was an interesting experience and a great night.  I was able to learn of their system, meet many locals and visit a few locations in the area before calling it a night.

The plan for the next day was to return to Portsmouth, contact Clide, grab my things and head to Laudaut, to spend  days in the rainforest.  I had checked off three parts of the list and two more were up that way.


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