Day Two and Three - Northern Dominica - Bense

With reference to the list of top ten things to do, after returning the boat, we headed north on a bus to Chadiere Pool, near to the town of Bense.  Here, we hiked for approximately 30 minutes, 10 minutes of which was along a beautiful stream,  to take a quick swim next to a small waterfall.  The rainforest was beautiful, much like St. Lucia, and the waterfall quiet and private.  Crossing the stream was at parts difficult, due to the strong current.  I slipped once and it took some time to catch myself as the water quickly moved me along.  While it only added to the adventure, I was soaked for the remainder of the walk which was not all that bad given the hot temperature of the day.


Along route back, I ran into a local fishing in the stream.  I stopped to ask what he was fishing for and he reached into his back pocket and pulled out a large crayfish.  Apparently they are plentiful in this area.

Afterwards we headed to Batibou Bay where I met Jacqueline  Douglas.  Ash, if you are following this part of the blog for places to stop and see or people to meet when you visit Dominica, mark this place down and be sure to stop by to meet Jacquiline.  She owns a little bed and breakfast in the area, but this is only one of her multiple jobs.  She is also a therapist, runs the bar on Batibou Beach, manages the surrounding estate and land and is quite involved in the community.  Jacquiline, has a welcoming smile and as I commented after trying my first drink at her bar, she makes dangerously good cinnamon rum.  

Batibou Bay, is perhaps one of the nicest beaches in Dominica, if not the nicest.  I am told that on a clear day you can see Guadaloupe from the shore.  The beach is quiet, with only a few other travelers sharing the experience with us, and is lined with hammocks along the shore to rest and take in the view.  Jacqueline sells drinks and completely organic lunches at this bar, with the use of banana leafs for plates, her little shack, tops the experience.

That night, Shahir went on ahead back to Portsmouth, while I stayed at Jacquelines place, in order to sleep off some of the rum and experience the area more thoroughly.   This was a beautiful part of the island, which I wish I had had more time to explore.  Apparently, with notice, you can contact a local to bring you down the river on a bamboo raft!  I spent my time relaxing, observing, and walking around the nature, soaking in all that I could.  There is however, something for everyone here and at the very least, it is worth a few days of any trip to Dominica.  Here is the website for the area for more information

http://hampsteadestate.com/


In the morning Jacqueline brought me with her on her usual errands.  We started with fruit picking and coconut counting, in an area used to film Pirates of the Caribbean.  She explained how many locals were not happy with the filming of this movie in certain locations as, while the hotels made good business, many property owners spent the income returning their property back to the way it was before roads and disturbances to the nature were caused during the filming.  Some wound up paying more in repairs than than they were paid by the production.

Jacqueline had the property divided up and a number of locals worked the land.  In the area we were counting coconuts, a woman had picked a huge stack.  She sells the coconuts for 50 cents and pays Jacqueline 10 cents for each she takes from her trees.  A good deal, I thought.  The land is kept up, the coconuts are harvested, and locals are able to make an income, while supplementing Jacqueline for her efforts and work.

Afterwards we went for a dip in the river, before heading into town.  Jacqueline, was in the midst of organizing a government subsidized tour guiding course for some locals, in order to increase the number of those around, who are able to properly show travelers the area.  Normally the course is quite expensive, and as it takes some time to pay back the cost, as a result, fewer and fewer locals were becoming involved.  Though this effort, Jacqueline was out to fix the problem. 

With the coconuts counted, the passion fruit picked and the letter to the government sent, we drove back to the house briefly before heading down to the beach where we first met.  Another peaceful day.  Jacqueline and I relaxed, shared some stories and had lunch before I headed back up to the road, which I hitchhiked my way back to town from.  I had hoped to return, but as the many stories to come will indicate, there was rarely time left to fill.  I will however be returning for this bamboo rafting trip, Jacqueline told me of, the next time I am in Dominica.  Until then, I was off to visit other parts of the island!